More Floor Trimming
Trimmed Custom Floor Panels
I used files, snips, and a belt sander to trim the custom panels I made. Small amounts of trimming were needed to get proper clearance and fit.
Rough Cut Panel under Rudder Pedals
I began to rough cut the cutouts for a panel under the rudder pedals. The factory panel end aft of the pedals and I'm making one to go under and forward of that area. There are many small cutouts to get located correctly with the aid of a pattern and then trim to fit.
Rough Cut new Floor Panels
I began making new floor panels for the area around the control sticks. The avipro panel that comes with the kit is a single panel for the area, with a generious area cutout for an inspection panel around the flap handle. I wanted to be able to remove the whole floor board for annual inspection. The single piece panel couldn't be removed without pulling the control sticks also so I decided to split the panel. I sheared some panels at my neighbor's shop and today I begin to rough cut the cutout areas with a scroll saw and band saw.
Floorboards/ Rudder guards
I went to a friends sheet metal shop to shear and bend up some floor panels and rudder guards. I used flashing to make a brake shoe and that worked out quite well.
Disassembled Shock Struts, Installed Fairleads
I disassembled my shock struts so that I can make a slight modification to them to plug them off (so the rod end isn't the thing capping them). Also, I used a rotoray tool to grind off some of the weld flash on the fairlead brackets.
Floorboard template, cable guards
Transferred the template for the floorboard panel forward of the rudder pedals to a sheet of .032. We're also going to re-make the panel around the control sticks for easier removal so that was transferred as well. Stacey laid out the cable guard cuts and bend lines on a sheet of .025. All materials were 2024T3.
Seat Install
I finished the front seat adjusters this evening. I cut the pins to length, chucked them in a drill and sanded a chamfer on the edge. The combination of a slightly countersunk hole and a chamferred pin makes the pin find the adjustment hole very nicely.
I ran a tap through the back seat mount bushings to clean up the threads (primer) and installed the mount tabs. The seat legs and mount tabs didn't align exactly so I need to heat the seat frame so it all lines up well. I want the seat to drop in place for quick and easy install and removal.
- Cutting Seat Pin
- Power Sanding Chamfer
- Fine Sanding Chamfer
- Adjuster Installed
- Clean Threads w/ a tap
- Back Seat Mis-Align
More Seats, Floorboards
I finished drilling the floorboard holes for the back seat today. The rearward holes at Sta. E required drilling through both panels and I managed to make the holes line up almost perfectly over the mount bushing. I finished drilled and deburred all holes. It went much better this time as I used a #1 Irwin Unibit after drilling a #30 pilot hole. I also filed out the clevis mounts on the legs of the backseat to allow the tabs to fit in. The tubes hadn't quite been cut enough on one side and there was quite a bit of primer and welding flash that I filed out. I reamed the holes in the seats and mount tabs to 1/4" to accept push button quick release pins (using Jergens 1/4x0.75, cheaper on Amazon). The seat will wait for final install until 2 odd sized taps come in the mail to help clean primer out of the threads in the seat mount bushings.
Additionally, I finished trimming springs to fit the front seat adjusters. The adjuster pins were prepared to be cut to final length (next time).
Finally, Stacey came to the hangar after work and helped me make a template for the floorboard forward and underneath the rudder pedals. Avipro didn't include this panel, but I feel it's necessary to keep things from falling into the belly of the plane.
Back Seat Install
I began drilling the rear floorboards to install the back. seat frame. This took some time as I discovered that all step drills are not created equal. At first I used a craftsman step drill with flutes on 2 sides. That tool didn't work well and created a really ugly looking triangle hole. After a lot of contemplation and drilling on scrap aluminum I discovered that the Irwin Unibit only has one flute and it stays indexed in the hole to make nice round ones. I knew a step drill was supposedly the right tool to make larger holes in thin sheet, you just have to use the right step drill.
- The Correct Tool
- Piece Of Junk











